There’s something special about hitting the back roads of Mpumalanga, a province rich with history, warm hospitality, and, of course, some fantastic beer stops. My latest journey took me from Zululand through Piet Retief, Wakkerstroom, Lydenburg, Sabie, White River, and Chrissiesmeer—a trip filled with flavour, fascinating stories, and a few well-earned pints along the way.
Piet Retief: A Butcher’s Legacy and German Delights
First stop, Piet Retief. A visit to Berno’s Butchery is a must for anyone who appreciates top-quality meats. Berno Gevers took over the butchery from my Uncle Penny in 1996, and after years of perfecting the craft, recently handed the reins to his son, Jürgen. Their cheese grillers remain my favourites.
For something sweet, I stopped at The Waffle Shack, a gem serving up traditional German cakes that would make any pastry lover weak at the knees. Piet Retief’s culinary scene might be small, but it’s packed with heart and heritage.
Wakkerstroom: Coffee, Community, and a Quiet Brewery
Leaving Piet Retief, I took the high scenic drive along the KwaZulu-Natal – Mpumalanga border, a route filled with breathtaking views, rolling hills, and untouched landscapes. The drive alone is worth the trip, showcasing the region’s natural beauty at every turn.
Wakkerstroom has always been a favourite stop, and I made my way back to Theressa Coffee Roastery for a coffee fix. The Red Rooster Pub is another essential stop for a locally brewed pint, but unfortunately, the brewer was out of town. Still, the town’s charm never disappoints, and there’s always next time.
Lydenburg: Hops Hollow and the Long Tom Pass
Hops Hollow, Africa’s highest brewery, now also boasts a distillery and is a popular destination for locals and visitors to the province. Perched atop the Long Tom Pass, it offers breathtaking views and exudes the charm of an Alpine hotel. Nestled in the mountains, the brewery provides an experience as rich as its history and beer. Willie Botha, who took over from Oom Theo many years ago, has been instrumental in maintaining its legacy, ensuring every visit is one to remember.
Sabie: Brewing in the Heart of the Mountains
A visit to Sabie Brewery meant catching up with Vincent, who continues to champion craft brewing in the region. The combination of fresh mountain air and quality beer makes Sabie a perfect pit stop. After a day well spent, I settled in for the night at Sabie River Camp, a fantastic spot for an overnight stay.
White River: A Hub of Creativity and Craftsmanship
White River never ceases to impress, and my favourite destination is the Casterbridge Lifestyle Centre. Owner Louistook the time to share some of the exciting new happenings at Casterbridge, a space filled with local art, food, and innovative businesses.
I met Tanya at Gin & Co, where I had the pleasure of exploring a selection of finely crafted gins, each with its own unique flavour profile. We chatted about her exciting plans for her shop in Dullstroom, where she is planning to add a beer garden to the gin shop.
The highlight of my trip Wo hite River was discovering the new Genesis Brewing Co, where I met with brewer-owner Sean Jennings and his wife Nasreen to chat about their new taproom and the future of their craft beer journey.
Chrissiesmeer: Stepping Back in Time
Another highlight was meeting Esbie in Chrissiesmeer. This charming town is steeped in history, and a stop at The Billiard Room Historical Pub and Grill made that abundantly clear. Esbie shared fascinating stories about the pub, a place that feels like it’s frozen in time.
A visit to The Gin Shop was another highlight, with its carefully curated selection and the intriguing history behind the building it calls home.
The Long Road Back to Durban
With the Mpumalanga adventure wrapped up, it was time for the long drive back to Durban. No rest for the wicked, though—the next stop is Clarens Craft Beer Festival, and I’m looking forward to catching up with fellow brewers and beer lovers alike.
Stay tuned for more road trip tales as we continue to celebrate the Local Legends who make South Africa’s beer scene one of the most exciting in the world!