Rumours of a real German beer garden in Cape Town had made their way all the way to us in KwaZulu-Natal. Naturally, I had to see it for myself. I booked a flight to the Mother City, and the moment I touched down, I headed straight to the V&A Waterfront. I had arranged to meet some German-speaking and Namibian friends for a beer at none other than the Paulaner Brauhaus.
It was December 2001 when Cape Town welcomed this piece of Bavaria in the bustling Clock Tower precinct of the V&A Waterfront. Paulaner Brauhaus, a microbrewery and restaurant, wasn’t just another pub—it was the first Paulaner microbrewery in Africa. This significant investment by the Munich-based Schörghuber Corporate Group marked a bold step into South Africa, adding Cape Town to the list of locations where Paulaner had already made a name for itself in Europe, Asia, and the United States. The aim was simple yet ambitious: to bring authentic German beer culture to South Africa, and they certainly did so in style.
Paulaner, one of Bavaria’s oldest and largest breweries, was founded in 1634 and has maintained a stellar reputation for producing high-quality beer. All their brews adhered to the Reinheitsgebot, the German Beer Purity Law of 1516, which dictated that only four ingredients—water, barley, hops, and yeast—could be used. This ensured the beer remained pure, natural, and true to its Bavarian roots. With this proud brewing heritage, Paulaner Brauhaus brought the same dedication to its Cape Town venture.
I remember being in awe of the two impressive copper kettles that had been imported from Germany to brew the beer on-site. It was as if they had transported a slice of Munich right to the heart of Cape Town.
But Paulaner Brauhaus was more than just a microbrewery—it was an immersive experience of Bavarian culture. The 660-seater restaurant was packed with locals and tourists alike, all eager to get a taste of Germany. The food was just as authentic as the beer, with dishes like leberknödel soup, eisbein, and spätzle being meticulously crafted under the guidance of German chef Willi Hatt. The beer was delicious, but it was the full cultural experience that really made the Brauhaus stand out.
What truly added to the authenticity were the live oompah bands, beer tastings, and brewery tours where patrons could tap their own beers. It wasn’t just about having a pint; it was about experiencing Bavarian hospitality right in the middle of Cape Town.
And then there was Wolfgang, Wolfgang Koedel, the Bavarian brewmaster who took charge of brewing at Paulaner Brauhaus. Dressed in his authentic lederhosen, Wolfgang was quite an intimidating figure at first glance. But beneath that tough exterior was a man deeply passionate about his craft. His dedication to producing quality beer was evident in every pint poured at the Brauhaus. Wolfgang’s expertise as a Bavarian Braumeister quickly made a significant impact on the local craft beer industry. Who would have thought that this traditional Bavarian brewer, with his lederhosen and no-nonsense approach, would help shape South Africa’s emerging craft beer scene?
Wolfgang’s influence wasn’t just about bringing authentic Bavarian beer to Cape Town—it was about inspiring a new generation of brewers to embrace the craftsmanship and purity that made German beer so revered around the world. After the closure of Paulaner Brauhaus, Wolfgang continued to make waves in the South African beer scene by joining Cape Brewing Co. (CBC) as their brewmaster, continuing to spread the values of high-quality, traditional brewing in the local industry.
Around the same time that Paulaner was pioneering Bavarian beer in Cape Town, Boston Brewery was laying the groundwork for the local craft beer industry. Boston Brewery not only brewed their own unique beers but helped bring brands like Darling Brew and Jack Black Beer—both of which became cornerstones of South Africa’s craft beer revolution, to life. Boston’s commitment to quality and consistency allowed these brands to grow and flourish, ultimately leading to the expansion of the craft beer movement in Cape Town and throughout the country.
The Biscuit Mill market also played an instrumental role in the development of craft beer culture. In the early days, the market was one of the few places where you could consistently find a craft brewer selling their beers every Saturday. It became a hub where locals and tourists alike could discover new brews, meet passionate brewers, and learn more about the craft beer movement. This face-to-face connection helped cultivate a community of beer lovers who were eager to support and explore beyond the mainstream options.
Another pivotal influence in Cape Town’s craft beer scene was Brewers & Union. Although the brand was imported, Brewers & Union played a significant role in driving the growth of craft beer in the city and across South Africa. Located in the basement of an 18th-century church on Riebeek Square, the Brewers & Union bar became an iconic spot for craft beer enthusiasts. It was here that I first experienced their beers, which brought European-style brewing to Cape Town and exposed locals to a different level of beer quality. The stylish branding and distinctive flavors set Brewers & Union apart and helped build awareness and appreciation for craft beer as more than just a beverage—but as an experience.
These early players—Paulaner, Boston Brewery, Brewers & Union, and the small brewers at the Biscuit Mill—created a foundation that allowed Cape Town’s craft beer culture to flourish. Today, the city is a vibrant hub for craft beer lovers, with countless breweries, taprooms, and markets celebrating the diverse and growing craft beer community. Cape Town’s craft beer movement was built on the passion of pioneers like Wolfgang Koedel and the dedication of local brewers who believed in the power of high-quality, handcrafted beer. From Paulaner’s Bavarian brews to Boston’s contract creations and the experimental spirit of Brewers & Union, the story of Cape Town’s craft beer is one of resilience, creativity, and community.